How to get to Iceland in a Car or on a Motorcycle
The Trail and Adventure Motorcycle Podcast
Once
upon a time there was a ferry. A ferry that could transport you and your
motorcycle from the UK to an incredible and magical far away land.
Actually
it was two ferries. The first took you from Aberdeen to the Shetland islands
and from there another, having departed from Denmark, picked you up and
transported you to Iceland.
Sadly
all that stopped in 2008 when, for economic reasons no doubt, that particular
ferry company decided to no longer stop off to collect passengers at Shetland.
Charlie
and what's his faces Long Way Round had gone to air in 2004 and it seems that
not enough of us had yet realised that a similar two wheeled adventure, albeit
one that could be undertaken in a couple of weeks, lay right under our noses on
an island connected to the UK by boat.
Having
now all ditched our sports bikes I can't help wondering if the massive
Adventure bike owning population of today could have kept that service alive.
My
dream of riding in Iceland began long before all these shananagans took place
but it wasn't until September of 2016 that I finally summoned the confidence to
set off.
I'd
had all the essentials for quite some time, a bike, a tent, a sleeping bag,
some cooking equipment and a map.
Looking
back, it was just perhaps confidence that was missing although by the time that
had been found the convenient ferry service had disappeared.
There
is however still a way.
Smyril
Line's service still sails from the northern tip of Denmark to Iceland once a
week and the only ferry service still operating from the UK to the Netherlands
sails from Newcastle to Amsterdam every other day.
This
means an overnight sailing to Holland followed by a 600 mile ride across the
Netherlands and the corner of Germany, up the length of Denmark to the Saturday
ferry from Hirtshals.
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BMW
1200GS riders are likely to be tempted to tackle this journey in one day but I
found it to be a far less stressful trip spread over two days with a stopover
just over the German border.
The
ferry to Iceland leaves mid afternoon and so even if you've completed half your
mission you'll still have 300 miles to ride on your second day, which for most
is plenty.
Once
you reach the ferry terminal and see the array of vehicles sharing your
destination you could be forgiven for thinking you've perhaps bitten off more
than you can chew.
Our
European ex partners are experts in overland travel and nowhere is this better
illustrated than in the ferry queue for Europes overland Mecca.
You
might even begin to question your mode of transportation once you've seen some
of these ingenious 4x4's, from Unimogs to Ladas, all carrying their own
accommodation.
Standard
ferry cabins across the North Sea to Amsterdam are included in the price but
your cabin choice for the Icelandic ferry will affect your ticket price considerably.
Two
choices are available, the first being a private cabin where you'll no doubt
enjoy a peaceful nights sleep and have your own set of hangers to dry out your
riding gear. For half the price however you might like to opt for a
delightfully sounding couchette.
This
was my option and I can now tell you that couchette is actually French
for-unbearably hot tiny dormitory room of six bunk beds located in the bowels
of a ship where six adult males snore continuously whilst cabin crew slam doors
through out the night on route to the engine room.
You'll
also share the toilets and showers with your bunk bed companions.
After
a second intolerable night of this I actually took to sleeping on my air bed
under the stairwell leading to the car deck one level below. Despite feeling
like a homeless person this was a far cooler, quieter and comfortable
experience by far.
Strangely,
obligatory meals are included in the couchette ticket price and as long as
you're not vegetarian the food is quite excellent.
It's
a three day sail with a short stop at the Faroe Islands for you to wander
around for five hours whilst the ship restocks. You can also ride your bike off
the ferry for this time but having arranged this in advance you will have to
disembark with your bike no matter what, even if the mist is down and it's
pouring with rain.
It's
perhaps worth mentioning that I found sailing between the Faroe Islands as you
depart worth the ticket price alone as the scenery here was absolutely
stunning.
A
day later and you'll find yourself sailing down a steep sided fjord into the
port of Seydisfjordur in Iceland.
Sailing
into port you'll already feel as if you've had a fantastic adventure and as you
look up at the terrifying mountains around you it will suddenly dawn on you
that an infinitely bigger and more epic one is just about to begin.
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The Trail and Adventure Motorcycle Podcast











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